‘The Art of the Plate’
A Chefs Collaboration with Hospitality Students in Auburn, Alabama
On a sunlit afternoon we arrived at the beautiful small hotel, ‘The Laurel.” I felt like we were in a European hotel—except for the languages. I have had many emails and phone calls with Chef Antony Osborne who leads the culinary and teaching program there. Meeting him in person I quickly felt like we were longtime friends!
I had been thinking this was going to be a whirlwind of work to get my recipes ready, what with the first dinner the next night! But the ‘Chef in Residence’ Joël Antunes had everything prepped very well. He is a chef who I hope will write his own cookbook one day! Great professional history and a legion of recipes!
Once the food review was done Antony, Joël and I chatted easily of the places we’d each been and the chefs we both are friends with near and far. At 4:30, Antony asked if I would be so kind to address the students. Of course! We gathered in a private dining room just off the kitchen. We sat around a long rectangular table. Janet and I sat side by side at one end and I spoke of our journey. She has been with me since the first restaurant I cooked in, after all. The students were a combination of culinary and hotel management studies. They asked some very good questions.
I am sure they were surprised to hear of our working-class beginnings and early years wandering from place to place as we sought to find our way in this field we love. I could see Antony smiling with personal recollection of such times in his life. I probably lost the students a little when I shared the more philosophical books that propelled my career with New World and Fusion cuisines and how they came to be in my life. But maybe some will grasp at least part. Heck, I was lost a lot too reading them, but kept at it, underlining many key passages and adding my notes in the margins. My books are speckled with them! I have hopes those notes add an insider’s viewpoint in the span of time. I am slated to do this again and thinking of ways to be even clearer for them if I can be.
Antony visited with Janet and I for the next hour despite the myriad of things I’m sure he had to have going on. Antony has lived quite a life. Born in Wales and cooking by 17 in a vast hotel, working 16 hours a day. He recounts all his journey with no self-pity. He laughs gently and often.
He described that Joël had become the Chef in Residence for an unspecified period. “And we will also feature visiting guest chefs events like yours.”
He asked if we would like to have dinner in the restaurant, kindly adding, “It would be our honor”! He sat us at a lovely table, and we talked longer. We got along like old chums. I hope to remain in touch over the years! Soon the service began, and we were served flutes of a beautiful Champagne. Their Master Sommelier is Thomas Pryce. He also has lived in many places. He is a colorful man with a real joy for all things wine! These experts are joined together by the main architect of this vision, Mr. Hans Van Der Reijden whom we met during our first visit six or so months ago.
The elegant dining room seats 45 but has ample spacing and a gorgeous design. There was a party of 22 that arrived, creating an early energy. Smaller groups soon joined. Janet and I were served the eight-course Tasting Menu as designed by Chef Joël. It is a teaching restaurant, so each time, two students came out to describe the foods. Most of them were from Asia this night. They were shy, which I fully understand. I asked some questions to give them encouragement as they did it. We really loved the portion sizes of each course, allowing diners to not be weighted down. The first of the savory courses were our favorites, we agreed. In truth, they were all excellent. As is 1856!
“If language is a series of drifts and echoes,
borrowings and migrations, so is food”—Ligaya Mishan
Learn more about what the 1856 team had to say about the event here.