GAZPACHO

The story begins before tomatoes arrived in Spain.

Everyone knows that gazpacho is a chilled tomato soup, right? Not right. It was not, most assuredly not that way in the old days back in Spain. There were people eating gazpacho for many, many years before Captain Columbus returned to the Old World with these things called tomatoes. A non tomato gazpacho? (Is he making this up?) This may seem odd today but it’s so. In fact there were over 12 different kinds of gazpachos in the area of Spain called Andalusia, none of which had tomatoes. The most popular was ajo de blanco which was made with milk, garlic and almonds. There was even one with fava beans. Do you think an ancestor of Hannibal Lecter was possibly nourished by one of these? I must tell you a short aside. I once taught a cooking class attended by 29 women as well as the creator of that famous character. Thomas Harris was the sole gent in the room of that South Florida cooking school that day. Thomas Harris is also the author of, “Silence of the Lambs” name if you don’t recall. He was a sweet and gentle man. Kind of scary when I think about that dichotomy.

‘Stone Crab Gazpacho’ from, “My Key West Kitchen”, by Norman and Justin Van Aken. Photo credit to Penny De Los Santos.

Back to Gazpachos. There are constancies in the constellation of this soup. With bread, oil, vinegar and garlic the compass is set. Then you can go in all directions! You may enjoy gazpachos with lobster and tomatoes or coconut milk and chicken, but the fact is that without the other four, you have to give it another name. Let me repeat them; bread, oil, vinegar and garlic.

Gazpachos date back to before Roman times. The beginning of the word comes from the word caspa which is Italian for “remains”. Humble beginnings. For that’s what began many a gazpacho. Leftovers…with some bread. The dish did not become favored in other areas until the Andalusians came up with a combination of tomatoes, cucumbers and bell peppers. Some modern cooks jazz it up a with things like V-8 juice or even savory ice creams! Avocado ice cream seems to predominate.

A friend of mine sent me a video of my dear late friend/brother Charlie Trotter showing us how to make his celestial take on gazpacho. Charlie looks to be almost a teenager in the 1992 treasure on film. He is in his kitchen from back then. This was well before the gleaming Bonnet Range was installed. Before Charlie wore a dress shirt under his chef coat. But still what was so in evidence were his genius … and his remarkably artistic hands. He goes about showing how to make a gazpacho in the ‘Charlie Trotter way.’ It is amazing how far ahead of his time he was. In his gazpacho he created a tomato water essence that is obtained by pulsing ripe, organically grown beefsteak tomatoes with a hint of salt in a food processor until the tomatoes are not quite a puree but thoroughly broken up. Then he wraps them in cheese cloth, ties that up and hangs them overnight over a bowl in a cooler to collect the tomato essences within the purging fruits to capture ‘explosive tomato flavors’ as he pointedly put it on that vintage tape. That becomes the chilled liquid that he pours over a careful assemblage of jicama, Santa Rosa plums, avocado, jalapeño, bell pepper and cucumber. In the epicenter is a raw timbale of zucchini and yellow squash. Stunning.

When Charlie came to Jupiter, Fl. to work with me in 1984.

In the heat and heart of summer we love to eat more lightly. Cold soups can be a great way to do it and none nobler than this Spanish construction with so many variations. Do you want to do it Charlie style? In that case get some beautiful tomatoes, some cheesecloth and some twine … and a few helpers.

I’m Norman Van Aken and that’s my Word on Food ©.

To Make this Summer Wonder here is my recipe.

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GAZPACHO

©2003 All rights reserved by Norman Van Aken

Yield: 2 ¼ Cups (4 servings)

1 clove garlic, peeled and thinly sliced

1/2 jalapeño, roughly chopped, seeds removed, stemmed

1/4 Cup (1 ounce) inner stalks celery, roughly chopped

3/4 Cup (1/4) European cucumber (about 2 ounces), peeled, halved lengthwise,

scraped of any seeds and roughly chopped

1/4 Cup (1/2 medium‑size) red bell pepper, seeded, de-ribbed, and roughly chopped

4 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and fined diced

1-teaspoon kosher salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1 ½ Tablespoons sherry vinegar

2 Tablespoons extra‑virgin olive oil

1 ½ Tablespoons Pick-a-Peppa

Tabasco, to taste

For the Salsa Garnish

1/2 large yellow tomato, peeled, seeded and diced

1/3 Cup (1/4) red bell pepper, seeded, de-ribbed, and cut into 1/4‑inch dice

1 Cup (1/4) European cucumber, peeled, halved lengthwise, scraped of any seeds,

and cut into 1/4‑inch dice

1 Tablespoon diced red onion

1/2 Cup avocado, cut into 1/4 –inch dice

1/2 tablespoon chopped fresh Italian parsley

1/4 Tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

Kosher salt and Freshly cracked black pepper, to taste

1 1/2 Tablespoons roasted garlic oil

1 Cup bread, crust removed, cut into 1/4‑inch dice

In a large bowl, combine the garlic, jalapeño, celery, cucumber, red pepper, tomatoes, salt, and pepper.Refrigerate for 2 hours.Take out of the refrigerator and toss with the vinegar, oil and Pick a Peppa.Put this mixture in a blender and blend until smooth. Strain through a china cap.

© 2016 Norman Van Aken