BAHAMIAN CONCH CHOWDER

Hammered with Love in Old Key West Days

Those who have lived here in South Florida for some time may remember when conch, freshly harvested from the sea was available in the grocery stores and fish markets. My first recollection of conch was watching young boys pulling them up on to the pier at ‘Higg’s Beach’ in Key West, aka “The Conch Republic”. It was not much later I was learning to prepare authentic Bahamian Styled Conch Chowder by a local chef who went by the nickname of ‘Bicycle Sammy’. That handoff of knowledge occurred in my new position as a cook at ‘The Midget’, a bar & grill in Old Town, now long gone. One look at 'Bicycle Sammy’s’ prized bicycle and it would become immediately understandable why he earned that moniker.

Not everyone knows it but people born in Key West are referred to as “Conchs”. Some are given an honorary title as a “freshwater conch” if they live in Key West long enough. Our son and our granddaughter both are full on ‘conchs’. They were both born on that magical island. Some say the custom came from the Tory sympathizers who went to the Bahamas to escape the American Revolution or the English who came to Key West in the 1880’s from the Bahamas. What is not in contention is that the Bahamas are a fine source for a lot of conch cooking.

Al “A.J.” McClane wrote what is, to me, the bible of all fish reference books. It is titled, “The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery”. But it is also about all kinds of history, culture and traditions. I was blessed to cook for him one night in Key West and we quickly became friends. He wrote, “Although historians do not agree as to which island is the real San Salvador, in October of 1492 Admiral Christopher Columbus made landfall in the Bahamas. He observed the gentle Arawak Indians not only thrived on conch meat, but also made chisels, adz blades, trumpets and ceremonial carvings from its shell.” Conch blowing contests have been won by two Van Aken’s. I am not among that gifted group!

I love conch in many ways.

Conch pounded thinly and chilled for ‘Carpaccio’ with a spoonful of Brazilian Chilies Salsa is nice.

Conch Lasagna, an admittedly labor-intensive recipe I created for my first cookbook, “A Feast of Sunlight” is another. I was the Chef of the famous waterside restaurant, Louie’s Backyard then.

Of course we make Conch Fritters. There is a family that holds fast to traditions in Key West’s Bahama Village where a woman named Venda Storr can be found making fragrant batches of her delicious fritters just like her mother did before her in their home’s driveway. It is a true Conch tradition that I hope carries on for more generations. One can dream!

Today I’m craving a Cracked Conch Sandwich in a crisp-soft roll with some Homestead Tomatoes, Vidalia Onions and Florida Avocado, which rivals another favorite, a Soft-Shell Crab Po’ Boy! Or a smooth, yet slightly fiery Conch and Coconut Thai Red Curry that I’ll calm with some sticky white rice and sweetly caramelized fresh corn.

My recipe for a classic Bahamian style conch chowder is just below the paywall. Hey… A chef has to eat! The heavy hammer needed to tenderize the mollusk has been swung far and wide. It’s always swung with love.